<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Do cables make a difference?</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 05:15:33 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Kirby</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-5881</link>
		<dc:creator>Kirby</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2009 08:02:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-5881</guid>
		<description>This may fall on deaf ears since the last post was over a year ago, but I have a test to help prove thhat high end cables make a difference.
My current car audio system retails just over $4,000 and the sound is immaculate with one small issue.  When you rev the engine, a terrible high pitched eeeEEEEEEeeeeeEEEEEEEeee! comes from the speakers.  you can drown it out if you turn the volume up high enough, but many of my car audio associates have explained the issue is with my cheap cables.
I have purchased now a $140.00 pair instead of the $30.00 Scrope specials, and when they arrive, I will post if they make a difference.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This may fall on deaf ears since the last post was over a year ago, but I have a test to help prove thhat high end cables make a difference.<br />
My current car audio system retails just over $4,000 and the sound is immaculate with one small issue.  When you rev the engine, a terrible high pitched eeeEEEEEEeeeeeEEEEEEEeee! comes from the speakers.  you can drown it out if you turn the volume up high enough, but many of my car audio associates have explained the issue is with my cheap cables.<br />
I have purchased now a $140.00 pair instead of the $30.00 Scrope specials, and when they arrive, I will post if they make a difference.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: William</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-614</link>
		<dc:creator>William</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Dec 2007 18:19:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-614</guid>
		<description>I see many different brands of HDMI cables for sale at different prices.

Is there really a different b/w spending 80 dollars for a monster cable and 40 for a Belkin cable.

Thanks
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I see many different brands of HDMI cables for sale at different prices.</p>
<p>Is there really a different b/w spending 80 dollars for a monster cable and 40 for a Belkin cable.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: S. Musial</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-613</link>
		<dc:creator>S. Musial</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Sep 2007 02:51:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-613</guid>
		<description>This past Sunday though, I needed a 12 foot HDMI cable, to hide my wires behind the wall for the new 32” Samsung LCD in my office.  I ran down to my local Best Bye and the least expensive HDMI cable was $99.00 plus tax, the young (well groomed) audio expert sort of snickered at my poor understanding of audio and video and at my only slight displeasure of the price. Trust me, no ranting here, just a leisurely Sunday afternoon.

“Have you found a lower price for a 12 foot HDMI cable in this St. Louis?”  “Are you aware of the differences in quality (this was Best Buys’s only 12 ft. HDMI wire, and we surely know that they are sharing price points with Kimber, Cardas, etc.  Well actually I had to take his challenge, I had time to burn, my StL RAMS were stinking up the field.  I remember I recently purchased a nice OPPO DVD player for another room with a six foot cord thrown in the box for about $150?  I took the HDMI challenge!
I did find another12 foot HDMI at the Radio Shack for $79.00 three doors down within the strip mall, a savings of $30.00 with the 7% tax at both being a wash?

There again though, the thoughtful associate at the Shack suggested I go for the Monster brand though. Was it worth the walk at my middle age of 50 for about 6 minutes? Then the ultimate test, I come home to the holy grail of pricing, the internet and I find Firefold cables online (first time I have ever heard of the company, I promise I do not financial interest in anything one of these companies here, but some college tuition bills for two children, my retirement, etc., some of those real life things most of us do have), but here I have to settle now for (please sit down), a15 foot HDMI cable (25% longer mind you) for a total of $8.06 and no tax, but the first class shipping charge is a about a wash with the tax.  I had to even settle for those gold plated tips too.

I think some of us audio veterans have a have a heart for the young kids entering the hobby today.  And it is a hobby or passion for most of us. I can just image my son working for $10 an hour this past summer, and having to put in a full extra eight hours for that wire at the “Best” Buy?  Which I still will be a patron.

My approximate 40 years of enjoying music has taught me, to one, buy used (be more selective and decerning on speakers here though).  Put all you can in your speakers, there is where you will hear the largest difference. Then your amps, then work your way down.  Cables, Interconnects and the snake oil capitol of audio, the power cord should be way, way down your list. Never use percents, for I have never worked for percents, never paid my bills in percents, use U.S. dollars.

If you can afford $8.25 for per foot for the new and ever changing HDMI cable, and the clarity is one that the BB sales advisor stated “even my girlfriend sees a tremendous improvement, with that brand cable”, then maybe you have to &quot;go for it&quot;.  We all have to splurge once in awhile, right? But why not try the .53 cent a foot line first though, you may just be able to retire 10-15 years earlier adopting this approach once in awhile and have much more free time to hear much more music in your lifetime.

I can say with absolute confidence though, the equipment, wire, lines and patch cords that created the majority of these recordings we all listen to, cost only a fraction of the cost of what is any of our systems.  Is this sometimes getting to the point of Audio Alchemy?  How can something that goes in come out so perfect?  My opinion, and its worth about this sheet of paper this is printed on here, cables, interconnects and powercords are just audio costume jewelry.

Just another viewpoint, I may be wrong, but I doubt it.
(Sir Charles Barkley)
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This past Sunday though, I needed a 12 foot HDMI cable, to hide my wires behind the wall for the new 32” Samsung LCD in my office.  I ran down to my local Best Bye and the least expensive HDMI cable was $99.00 plus tax, the young (well groomed) audio expert sort of snickered at my poor understanding of audio and video and at my only slight displeasure of the price. Trust me, no ranting here, just a leisurely Sunday afternoon.</p>
<p>“Have you found a lower price for a 12 foot HDMI cable in this St. Louis?”  “Are you aware of the differences in quality (this was Best Buys’s only 12 ft. HDMI wire, and we surely know that they are sharing price points with Kimber, Cardas, etc.  Well actually I had to take his challenge, I had time to burn, my StL RAMS were stinking up the field.  I remember I recently purchased a nice OPPO DVD player for another room with a six foot cord thrown in the box for about $150?  I took the HDMI challenge!<br />
I did find another12 foot HDMI at the Radio Shack for $79.00 three doors down within the strip mall, a savings of $30.00 with the 7% tax at both being a wash?</p>
<p>There again though, the thoughtful associate at the Shack suggested I go for the Monster brand though. Was it worth the walk at my middle age of 50 for about 6 minutes? Then the ultimate test, I come home to the holy grail of pricing, the internet and I find Firefold cables online (first time I have ever heard of the company, I promise I do not financial interest in anything one of these companies here, but some college tuition bills for two children, my retirement, etc., some of those real life things most of us do have), but here I have to settle now for (please sit down), a15 foot HDMI cable (25% longer mind you) for a total of $8.06 and no tax, but the first class shipping charge is a about a wash with the tax.  I had to even settle for those gold plated tips too.</p>
<p>I think some of us audio veterans have a have a heart for the young kids entering the hobby today.  And it is a hobby or passion for most of us. I can just image my son working for $10 an hour this past summer, and having to put in a full extra eight hours for that wire at the “Best” Buy?  Which I still will be a patron.</p>
<p>My approximate 40 years of enjoying music has taught me, to one, buy used (be more selective and decerning on speakers here though).  Put all you can in your speakers, there is where you will hear the largest difference. Then your amps, then work your way down.  Cables, Interconnects and the snake oil capitol of audio, the power cord should be way, way down your list. Never use percents, for I have never worked for percents, never paid my bills in percents, use U.S. dollars.</p>
<p>If you can afford $8.25 for per foot for the new and ever changing HDMI cable, and the clarity is one that the BB sales advisor stated “even my girlfriend sees a tremendous improvement, with that brand cable”, then maybe you have to &#8220;go for it&#8221;.  We all have to splurge once in awhile, right? But why not try the .53 cent a foot line first though, you may just be able to retire 10-15 years earlier adopting this approach once in awhile and have much more free time to hear much more music in your lifetime.</p>
<p>I can say with absolute confidence though, the equipment, wire, lines and patch cords that created the majority of these recordings we all listen to, cost only a fraction of the cost of what is any of our systems.  Is this sometimes getting to the point of Audio Alchemy?  How can something that goes in come out so perfect?  My opinion, and its worth about this sheet of paper this is printed on here, cables, interconnects and powercords are just audio costume jewelry.</p>
<p>Just another viewpoint, I may be wrong, but I doubt it.<br />
(Sir Charles Barkley)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-612</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jul 2007 18:37:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-612</guid>
		<description>Interesting discussion. I have about $10,000 in my home theater equipment, (self installed,but at least a $7000 installation) but have spent less than $150 on Cables and it sounds fantastic. I am doing some tweaks and may report back here, but I have one very interesting observation....
Inside my components (Receiver, DVD, Dish box, and speakers) there is a lot of cable/wire and they are all very small diameter/high guage. I&#039;m sure they are of high quality, but they are 28awg or smaller.
The purities of the cable material (I believe) are insignificant (esp. at or greater than 99% purity). Shielding can help, but only if your cable is run intercepts a magnetic field.
Standard EE laws tell me I need larger wire over distance, but when will a 14 awg show improvement over 24awg? This should be standardized, and read from a table. You should be able to pick the cheapest cable at the length &amp; gauge you need and there will be no difference with other cables.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting discussion. I have about $10,000 in my home theater equipment, (self installed,but at least a $7000 installation) but have spent less than $150 on Cables and it sounds fantastic. I am doing some tweaks and may report back here, but I have one very interesting observation&#8230;.<br />
Inside my components (Receiver, DVD, Dish box, and speakers) there is a lot of cable/wire and they are all very small diameter/high guage. I&#8217;m sure they are of high quality, but they are 28awg or smaller.<br />
The purities of the cable material (I believe) are insignificant (esp. at or greater than 99% purity). Shielding can help, but only if your cable is run intercepts a magnetic field.<br />
Standard EE laws tell me I need larger wire over distance, but when will a 14 awg show improvement over 24awg? This should be standardized, and read from a table. You should be able to pick the cheapest cable at the length &#038; gauge you need and there will be no difference with other cables.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian Louis</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-611</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Louis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jul 2007 19:45:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-611</guid>
		<description>I have a set of AQ Gibraltar (about $1000/10ft pair biwired) for my main speakers. I loaned them to a friend and he gave me his monster cable that was about the same guage wire as my AQ wire to hold me over. At low volume I did not hear much difference if any. BUT, as I turned it up there was without a doubt a huge drop off in the bass response more than anything. The bass was there but sounded scratchy and distorted. He called me and commented how much better the bass sounded in his system with the AQ cables in there before I ever told him what I was hearing. So maybe at low volumes you can get away with a much less $$$ cable.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a set of AQ Gibraltar (about $1000/10ft pair biwired) for my main speakers. I loaned them to a friend and he gave me his monster cable that was about the same guage wire as my AQ wire to hold me over. At low volume I did not hear much difference if any. BUT, as I turned it up there was without a doubt a huge drop off in the bass response more than anything. The bass was there but sounded scratchy and distorted. He called me and commented how much better the bass sounded in his system with the AQ cables in there before I ever told him what I was hearing. So maybe at low volumes you can get away with a much less $$$ cable.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jim</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-610</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Dec 2006 22:06:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-610</guid>
		<description>Quick question - will my hdmi video signal suffer degradation if I take it from my cable box to a wall plate and then connect my tv&#039;s hdmi cable to the rear of the wall plate?  I thought I could get away from cables by using a cable card but it did not work.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Quick question &#8211; will my hdmi video signal suffer degradation if I take it from my cable box to a wall plate and then connect my tv&#8217;s hdmi cable to the rear of the wall plate?  I thought I could get away from cables by using a cable card but it did not work.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: DHGranstrand</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-609</link>
		<dc:creator>DHGranstrand</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 02 Dec 2006 13:46:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-609</guid>
		<description>I just purchased 25&#039; video component cables from bluejeanscableDOTcom. They were $80 for the set of three cables. Exceptional Canare RCA plugs with Belden 1694A cable. Extremely well constructed and flawless video transmission.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just purchased 25&#8242; video component cables from bluejeanscableDOTcom. They were $80 for the set of three cables. Exceptional Canare RCA plugs with Belden 1694A cable. Extremely well constructed and flawless video transmission.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cap'n Preshoot</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-608</link>
		<dc:creator>Cap'n Preshoot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Sep 2006 09:40:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-608</guid>
		<description>You&#039;re going to have to put me in the camp of the non-believers. I was in broadcast (FCC P1-17-11478) many years ago and worked for several more as a Region Engineer for Cox Cable back in the &#039;70s. True, there are &quot;proper cables&quot; for the job, but overall the buying public is getting hosed on their home entertainment cables.

The problem I have with &quot;consumer grade&quot; audio &amp; video cables is the marketing hype of the &quot;large&quot; brand (pun intended) coupled with retailer greed in blister-packaging their own store brand &amp; competing cables then pricing those &quot;just enough&quot; under the ridiculously priced brand to attract buyers. This &quot;riding on the coattails&quot; of the big marketer is tantamount to theft by deception.

There are some differences in cables, but paying 10 times as much for one vs another is absurd and should never suggest nor imply 10x the quality. You can get excellent quality cables for very reasonable prices. Unfortunately, with pressure on margins you&#039;ll seldom find much in the way of reasonably priced cables at the same store where you bought your fine HT equipment.

10% of your HT budget spent on cables? That still seems awfully high. I guess it would depend on how much your budget actually is. For a $2,000 system spending $200 (10%) on the cables might be reasonable, but spending $500 for cables on a $5,000 system sounds more like someone&#039;s getting taken to the cleaners. That same exact set of $200 cables should work equally well on either system and I have serious skepticism about the ability of anyone to prove that their eyes and ears can see or hear the difference.

In commercial broadcast we often made our own cables from bulk spools of brand-name cable (i.e., Belden) that at the time sold for a few cents a foot. Even the 5&quot; diameter nitrogen-pressurized heliax cable carrying our 50 KW signal to the top of our 1,200-ft tower was assembled on-site from (huge) spools of Andrew cable that sold for a few dollars a foot.

Gold-plated connectors? Well, if your component (amplifier, DVD player, etc) also has gold-plated jacks then I might agree, but otherwise you may be setting yourself up for some problems from the dissimilar metals. Anyone remember the problems the PC makers had with gold-plated memory being plugged in to nickel-plated tin connectors (and vice-versa) on the motherboards? It wasn&#039;t long (about a year) before these dissimilar metal connections began causing many system lockups.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You&#8217;re going to have to put me in the camp of the non-believers. I was in broadcast (FCC P1-17-11478) many years ago and worked for several more as a Region Engineer for Cox Cable back in the &#8217;70s. True, there are &#8220;proper cables&#8221; for the job, but overall the buying public is getting hosed on their home entertainment cables.</p>
<p>The problem I have with &#8220;consumer grade&#8221; audio &#038; video cables is the marketing hype of the &#8220;large&#8221; brand (pun intended) coupled with retailer greed in blister-packaging their own store brand &#038; competing cables then pricing those &#8220;just enough&#8221; under the ridiculously priced brand to attract buyers. This &#8220;riding on the coattails&#8221; of the big marketer is tantamount to theft by deception.</p>
<p>There are some differences in cables, but paying 10 times as much for one vs another is absurd and should never suggest nor imply 10x the quality. You can get excellent quality cables for very reasonable prices. Unfortunately, with pressure on margins you&#8217;ll seldom find much in the way of reasonably priced cables at the same store where you bought your fine HT equipment.</p>
<p>10% of your HT budget spent on cables? That still seems awfully high. I guess it would depend on how much your budget actually is. For a $2,000 system spending $200 (10%) on the cables might be reasonable, but spending $500 for cables on a $5,000 system sounds more like someone&#8217;s getting taken to the cleaners. That same exact set of $200 cables should work equally well on either system and I have serious skepticism about the ability of anyone to prove that their eyes and ears can see or hear the difference.</p>
<p>In commercial broadcast we often made our own cables from bulk spools of brand-name cable (i.e., Belden) that at the time sold for a few cents a foot. Even the 5&#8243; diameter nitrogen-pressurized heliax cable carrying our 50 KW signal to the top of our 1,200-ft tower was assembled on-site from (huge) spools of Andrew cable that sold for a few dollars a foot.</p>
<p>Gold-plated connectors? Well, if your component (amplifier, DVD player, etc) also has gold-plated jacks then I might agree, but otherwise you may be setting yourself up for some problems from the dissimilar metals. Anyone remember the problems the PC makers had with gold-plated memory being plugged in to nickel-plated tin connectors (and vice-versa) on the motherboards? It wasn&#8217;t long (about a year) before these dissimilar metal connections began causing many system lockups.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Reddog</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-607</link>
		<dc:creator>Reddog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Sep 2006 22:50:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-607</guid>
		<description>I was going to explain the concept that digital systems still experience and deal with loss, but this explanation is much better &quot;Regarding digital audio cables: At audio sampling rates, i.e. 96KHz, the 24-bit data for DVD-Audio at 6 channels means a cable bit rate of 13.8Mbits/s. Lets say the velocity of propagation is 4.76ns/m. At that data rate, a new bit is introduced onto the cable every 72ns.

Right there you can conclude that any cable less than 15meters is good enough for digital signals to be able to completely ignore inter-symbol interference.

That is the problem where one data bit interferes with its neighbors as it travels down the cable.  For DVI data, still digital mind you, the data rate is more like 600Mbits/s for a 720p data signal. That means cables shorter than 0.35m can ignore ISI.&quot;

Too restate this in a more succinct way, the faster you want to transfer data the more important the quality of the cables.  Cable quality does matter, even for digital transmissions.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was going to explain the concept that digital systems still experience and deal with loss, but this explanation is much better &#8220;Regarding digital audio cables: At audio sampling rates, i.e. 96KHz, the 24-bit data for DVD-Audio at 6 channels means a cable bit rate of 13.8Mbits/s. Lets say the velocity of propagation is 4.76ns/m. At that data rate, a new bit is introduced onto the cable every 72ns.</p>
<p>Right there you can conclude that any cable less than 15meters is good enough for digital signals to be able to completely ignore inter-symbol interference.</p>
<p>That is the problem where one data bit interferes with its neighbors as it travels down the cable.  For DVI data, still digital mind you, the data rate is more like 600Mbits/s for a 720p data signal. That means cables shorter than 0.35m can ignore ISI.&#8221;</p>
<p>Too restate this in a more succinct way, the faster you want to transfer data the more important the quality of the cables.  Cable quality does matter, even for digital transmissions.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ben Hobbs</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-606</link>
		<dc:creator>Ben Hobbs</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:09:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-606</guid>
		<description>I agree with one of the posters comments about HDMI/DVI runs - for a 1-2 metre run, Im pretty sure that any DVI cable will do.  However I had a 10m run of cheap cable that would not display a 720p or 1080i/p image,  it would be fine if I set it to a lower resolution but woul djust fill the screen with garbage at higher resolutions.

I have also seen the sparkles from another cheaply priced cable at 10m, Currently I insist on cabling in decent quality HDMI/DVI cables for lengths of 10-15 metres +.  These arent outrageously expensive ($125-$200 US or so) and have worked every time, in every install at every possible resolution.  However these cables are VERY good quality, I could never see a need to spend more than this on high-end HDMI cables even for 15m runs.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree with one of the posters comments about HDMI/DVI runs &#8211; for a 1-2 metre run, Im pretty sure that any DVI cable will do.  However I had a 10m run of cheap cable that would not display a 720p or 1080i/p image,  it would be fine if I set it to a lower resolution but woul djust fill the screen with garbage at higher resolutions.</p>
<p>I have also seen the sparkles from another cheaply priced cable at 10m, Currently I insist on cabling in decent quality HDMI/DVI cables for lengths of 10-15 metres +.  These arent outrageously expensive ($125-$200 US or so) and have worked every time, in every install at every possible resolution.  However these cables are VERY good quality, I could never see a need to spend more than this on high-end HDMI cables even for 15m runs.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rob Poitras</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-605</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Poitras</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 May 2006 12:08:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-605</guid>
		<description>&quot;The only other comment I&#039;ll make about audio is that the detection of a 1 or 0 is not the only problem that is present. All digital audio receivers need to recover the source clock source of the data in order to play the audio. If a poorly constructed cable causes the signal to jitter excessively, the receive clock (if it can track this jitter) will also be jittery and this may be audible. If the receiver cannot track this jitter, data bit errors can result which are also audible.&quot;

This man speaks the truth, I was going to post the same thing.

For a quick speaker wire comparo, just wire up the left with a cheap cable and a better cable on the right side then flip between sides. You should be able to hear a difference.

Another factor why people don&#039;t always tend to hear a difference in general with cable is they don&#039;t have a trained ear. Think of wine connoisseurs, without a trained taste they probably can&#039;t tell the difference between two different years of the same wine (2001 vs 2000 merlot from XYZ winery) but if they are trained they can probably taste the difference between two bottles of wine that are the same (both 2001 merlots from XYZ).

The best is to get some of the best cables you can afford and hook them up, if you cant tell a difference then return them for something cheap.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;The only other comment I&#8217;ll make about audio is that the detection of a 1 or 0 is not the only problem that is present. All digital audio receivers need to recover the source clock source of the data in order to play the audio. If a poorly constructed cable causes the signal to jitter excessively, the receive clock (if it can track this jitter) will also be jittery and this may be audible. If the receiver cannot track this jitter, data bit errors can result which are also audible.&#8221;</p>
<p>This man speaks the truth, I was going to post the same thing.</p>
<p>For a quick speaker wire comparo, just wire up the left with a cheap cable and a better cable on the right side then flip between sides. You should be able to hear a difference.</p>
<p>Another factor why people don&#8217;t always tend to hear a difference in general with cable is they don&#8217;t have a trained ear. Think of wine connoisseurs, without a trained taste they probably can&#8217;t tell the difference between two different years of the same wine (2001 vs 2000 merlot from XYZ winery) but if they are trained they can probably taste the difference between two bottles of wine that are the same (both 2001 merlots from XYZ).</p>
<p>The best is to get some of the best cables you can afford and hook them up, if you cant tell a difference then return them for something cheap.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: BobG</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-604</link>
		<dc:creator>BobG</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 May 2006 11:34:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-604</guid>
		<description>Regarding digital audio cables: At audio sampling rates, i.e. 96KHz, the 24-bit data for DVD-Audio at 6 channels means a cable bit rate of 13.8Mbits/s. Lets say the velocity of propagation is 4.76ns/m. At that data rate, a new bit is introduced onto the cable every 72ns. Right there you can conclude that any cable less than 15meters is good enough for digital signals to be able to completely ignore inter-symbol interference. That is the problem where one data bit interferes with it&#039;s neighbors as it travels down the cable.

For DVI data, still digital mind you, the data rate is more like 600Mbits/s for a 720p data signal. That means cables shorter than 0.35m can ignore ISI. Much bigger problem for these signals and this is why cable construction and DVI receiver technology is so important for video.

The only other comment I&#039;ll make about audio is that the detection of a 1 or 0 is not the only problem that is present. All digital audio receivers need to recover the source clock source of the data in order to play the audio. If a poorly constructed cable causes the signal to jitter excessively, the receive clock (if it can track this jitter) will also be jittery and this may be audible. If the receiver cannot track this jitter, data bit errors can result which are also audible.

Hope this helps the discussion.

Bob
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Regarding digital audio cables: At audio sampling rates, i.e. 96KHz, the 24-bit data for DVD-Audio at 6 channels means a cable bit rate of 13.8Mbits/s. Lets say the velocity of propagation is 4.76ns/m. At that data rate, a new bit is introduced onto the cable every 72ns. Right there you can conclude that any cable less than 15meters is good enough for digital signals to be able to completely ignore inter-symbol interference. That is the problem where one data bit interferes with it&#8217;s neighbors as it travels down the cable.</p>
<p>For DVI data, still digital mind you, the data rate is more like 600Mbits/s for a 720p data signal. That means cables shorter than 0.35m can ignore ISI. Much bigger problem for these signals and this is why cable construction and DVI receiver technology is so important for video.</p>
<p>The only other comment I&#8217;ll make about audio is that the detection of a 1 or 0 is not the only problem that is present. All digital audio receivers need to recover the source clock source of the data in order to play the audio. If a poorly constructed cable causes the signal to jitter excessively, the receive clock (if it can track this jitter) will also be jittery and this may be audible. If the receiver cannot track this jitter, data bit errors can result which are also audible.</p>
<p>Hope this helps the discussion.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: B.Greenway</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-603</link>
		<dc:creator>B.Greenway</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2006 17:48:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-603</guid>
		<description>Hey Shaka,

I know we (4 of us atm) haven’t soldered a connection in years but even that’s going to take some clarification. We’ve been using the Cable-Pro compression fittings along with 75ohm RG59 for component and digital audio runs, and 50ohm RG59 for analog audio runs; from the head-end out to local Plasma’s/LCD’s as well as projector installations to back-up a HDMI or DVI connection etc.

In situations where those types of runs are too long, we’re doing the long haul with Crestron CNX-RMC’s and just breaking it out locally.

But for the actual equipment in the rack we’re still using preconfigured ‘traditional’ interconnects whenever possible. We just cant rationalize the time expenditure for custom cables every time unless we’re talking about a 2-gang Mid-Atlantic rack enclosure and a customer willing to pay for the difference in how much cleaner custom cables look.

Keep in mind I’m talking about at work (like I think you are). At home about the only ‘custom’ cable I have are a few RG59 feeds that run to a Gamecube on the other side of the room, other than that its all stock pre-made stuff.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Shaka,</p>
<p>I know we (4 of us atm) haven’t soldered a connection in years but even that’s going to take some clarification. We’ve been using the Cable-Pro compression fittings along with 75ohm RG59 for component and digital audio runs, and 50ohm RG59 for analog audio runs; from the head-end out to local Plasma’s/LCD’s as well as projector installations to back-up a HDMI or DVI connection etc.</p>
<p>In situations where those types of runs are too long, we’re doing the long haul with Crestron CNX-RMC’s and just breaking it out locally.</p>
<p>But for the actual equipment in the rack we’re still using preconfigured ‘traditional’ interconnects whenever possible. We just cant rationalize the time expenditure for custom cables every time unless we’re talking about a 2-gang Mid-Atlantic rack enclosure and a customer willing to pay for the difference in how much cleaner custom cables look.</p>
<p>Keep in mind I’m talking about at work (like I think you are). At home about the only ‘custom’ cable I have are a few RG59 feeds that run to a Gamecube on the other side of the room, other than that its all stock pre-made stuff.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: shakaZOLO</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-602</link>
		<dc:creator>shakaZOLO</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2006 17:19:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-602</guid>
		<description>Throwing myself to the sharks here, but what&#039;s the general consensus surrounding soldered interconnected versus compression fittings. I&#039;ve heard both sides, admittedly from my reps in either camp. The solder guys talk about signal path and continuity through the solder. But the compression guys make the argument that there is actually more contact with the conductor of an RCA or BNC cable from a solid core thrust directly into the connector. Anyone ever test this? With the latter I am referring to something like the liberty RG59 digital serial cable. Also, how do you feel about using these for audio and video, despite the ohm differences?
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Throwing myself to the sharks here, but what&#8217;s the general consensus surrounding soldered interconnected versus compression fittings. I&#8217;ve heard both sides, admittedly from my reps in either camp. The solder guys talk about signal path and continuity through the solder. But the compression guys make the argument that there is actually more contact with the conductor of an RCA or BNC cable from a solid core thrust directly into the connector. Anyone ever test this? With the latter I am referring to something like the liberty RG59 digital serial cable. Also, how do you feel about using these for audio and video, despite the ohm differences?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian Hoyt</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheaterblog.com/hometheater/2006/05/do-cables-make-a-difference/#comment-601</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Hoyt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 May 2006 16:16:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.hometheaterblog.com/?p=396#comment-601</guid>
		<description>I will just add a comment on the digital cables.  I used to be the either it is there or it isn&#039;t type.  To a degree I still believe that with optical (at least under 1 KM).  However with DVI/HDMI I have seen the difference on long cable runs.  It is often described as sparkles.  Certain pixels are not drawn properly in what I can only assume is a failure of certain error correction or refresh signals not all making it.

Some people have them and just think it is a bad picture, but in the times I have seen them improving the cable made all the difference.  There are certified HDMI cables of longer lengths for a reason.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will just add a comment on the digital cables.  I used to be the either it is there or it isn&#8217;t type.  To a degree I still believe that with optical (at least under 1 KM).  However with DVI/HDMI I have seen the difference on long cable runs.  It is often described as sparkles.  Certain pixels are not drawn properly in what I can only assume is a failure of certain error correction or refresh signals not all making it.</p>
<p>Some people have them and just think it is a bad picture, but in the times I have seen them improving the cable made all the difference.  There are certified HDMI cables of longer lengths for a reason.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
